Gorgeous Hair … On A Budget

Keep Locks Looking Good

These days, saving money is all the rage, and even small changes — carpooling to work or making coffee at home — can add up. But when it comes to cutting back on hair care, many women are hesitant to make significant changes for fear it could impact their looks and the health of their hair. That’s where a dermatologist can help. Paradi Mirmirani, M.D., FAAD, assistant clinical professor of dermatology at the University of California, San Francisco, insists there are ways to have healthy, beautiful hair without breaking the bank.

“There are many ways that we can trim our hair care expenses, from going to the salon less frequently to using fewer products,” Dr. Mirmirani says. “But, the ultimate goal with any type of change in our hair care routine should be to maintain healthy hair.”

A Primer On Hair

Hair is a fiber; its structure and integrity must be maintained in order for the hair to stay healthy. The root of the hair — the hair follicle — produces the hair fiber, which is made up of hair keratins. Keratins are fine, fiber-like structures, which function like the shingles on a roof to protect the underlying structure. When the outer cuticle is damaged, the cuticle breaks apart and the inner fibers are exposed, resulting in frizzy, flyaway, or lackluster hair.

Healthy hair requires an intact cuticle. Likewise, Dr. Mirmirani advises that every part of your hair care routine — from cleaning to styling to brushing — be gentle enough to maintain the structure of the hair fiber and cuticle.

Consider these small changes to save money on hair care without compromising hair health:

Brush Up On Hairbrushes

While boar bristle brushes often are touted as the best hairbrushes, Dr. Mirmirani says this is a myth. “Boar bristle brushes, which are quite expensive, put a lot of friction on the hair because the bristles come into contact with hair against its natural grain,” Dr. Mirmirani explains. “This can cause a considerable amount of damage. Consumers can save money and keep hair healthier at the same time by buying inexpensive plastic brushes with wide-spaced needles, which are widely available.”

Shampoo — Less Is More

Although shampooing is an important part of any hair care routine, Dr. Mirmirani says that most people could save money in this area. By definition, shampoo is a detergent used to remove dirt from the scalp, with different scents added to make them more appealing. Dr. Mirmirani says people could use less shampoo (particularly if they have long hair) by washing only the scalp and not shampooing the lower parts of the hair.

“In addition, how often you wash your hair should be based on how oily your scalp is — if it’s oily, you might need to wash it more frequently than someone with a dry scalp,” she says. “However, most of us are probably over-washing our hair, and can save some money by using less shampoo.”

She recommends that you choose shampoos formulated for your hair type. “If you color your hair, then select a shampoo designed for color-treated hair, as it is gentler than regular shampoo and can help extend your hair color. But if dandruff is a problem, then try a shampoo formulated to fight dandruff. The key is finding the product that works best for you and avoid the temptation to spend more than you have to.”

Conditioners Count

To maintain healthy hair, Dr. Mirmirani advises not to skimp on conditioner. For those with long hair, conditioner plays an important role in helping protect and maintain the structure of the cuticle, especially at the ends. If hair is damaged, regular conditioning is even more important.

“If your hair is damaged, I would advise using a 2-in-1 shampoo with conditioner followed by extra conditioner to fully protect and help restore the cuticle,” Dr. Mirmirani says. “A leave-in conditioner for deep conditioning that can be applied at home also is important for people with long or damaged hair.”

She cautions that conditioners can make fine hair look even limper, so they should only be used on the tips of the hair and not the scalp or length of the cuticle.

Protect Hair From Heat

Dr. Mirmirani sees many people who try to save money by using ceramic flat irons on a very high-heat setting to straighten their hair, rather than spending money for this treatment at a salon. Problems can occur with these styling products, and it is important to read the instructions before using them on hair. For example, flat irons should never be used on wet hair, the highest-heat setting, or on an everyday basis. When using any heat-based styling product (including a flat iron, blow-dryer, or curling iron), Dr. Mirmirani recommends using a styling product specially designed to protect the hair from heat before styling the hair, such as a leave-in conditioning spray. Since ultraviolet (UV) radiation will bleach hair, Dr. Mirmirani also recommends avoiding intentional or prolonged sun exposure, and wearing a hat to protect color-treated hair.

Fuller Hair For Less

While full, luxurious hair may not be in your genes, Dr. Mirmirani says there are a few simple tricks to make limp hair look fuller that won’t cost any money. For instance, blow-drying hair upside down can add volume. Hiding the central part of the hair by restyling it can create the illusion of fuller hair.

Many shampoos are available that claim to add volume to hair, and Dr. Mirmirani says some of these shampoos can be helpful for people with limp hair. However, she doesn’t recommend any products that claim to regrow hair, as the only product that has been shown to do this is minoxidil — a topical solution approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration to treat hair loss in women and men.

“Even though minoxidil is available over-the-counter, people who are considering using it for thinning hair should see their dermatologist for a full evaluation before starting this therapy,” she says. “Infomercial and Internet products that claim to improve hair growth for people with fine or thinning hair may not have been scientifically tested, and I strongly advise people not to spend their money on these types of products. They are expensive and they often don’t work.”

If you have multiple hair care concerns and are unsure what products will work best for your hair type, Dr. Mirmirani recommends that you see a dermatologist for expert advice.

Headquartered in Schaumburg, Ill., the American Academy of Dermatology, founded in 1938, is the largest, most influential, and most representative of all dermatologic associations. For more information, contact the Academy at 1-888-462-DERM (3376) or aad.org.